How to wash and care for natural fibre clothing

The question Grace gets asked most often in the shop is not about fit or colour. It is about washing. Specifically: can I actually wash this at home, or will it shrink, felt, or fall apart? The honest answer, for most natural fibres, is yes, you can wash it at home, provided you know what you are doing. Here is what seven years of handling these fabrics every day has taught her.

Linen: the easiest of the lot ¶

Linen is more forgiving than its reputation suggests. Most woven linen garments can be machine-washed on a cool cycle (30 degrees or below) in a mesh bag, then line-dried or laid flat. The fabric will soften with every wash, which is the whole point of pre-washed linen: you are buying something that has already done its shrinking.

The one thing to avoid is a hot tumble dry. Linen fibres are strong but they do not like sustained heat. A short tumble on low to remove creases, then out and onto a hanger, is fine. If you want to iron it, do so while it is still slightly damp and the creases come out in seconds.

Wool and cashmere: cold water, no agitation ¶

The reason wool felts in a hot wash is not the heat alone. It is the combination of heat, water, and mechanical agitation. The fibres have tiny scales that lock together under those conditions and cannot be separated once they have bonded. Cold water and a gentle cycle prevent this.

For cashmere specifically, hand-washing in cold water with a small amount of hair conditioner (not detergent) is the method Grace uses on her own pieces. Lay the garment flat on a clean towel, roll the towel to press out the water, then reshape and dry flat away from direct heat. It takes ten minutes and the cashmere lasts years longer for it.

Pilling is a separate issue from washing. It happens when short fibres work their way to the surface through friction, particularly under the arms and where a bag strap sits. A fabric comb or a battery-powered lint shaver removes pills without damaging the underlying knit. Do not pull them off by hand.

Silk: the one that needs the most attention ¶

Silk charmeuse and silk habotai can both be hand-washed in cold water, but they need to be treated gently. No wringing, no twisting. Press the water out between two towels and hang to dry in shade. Direct sunlight will fade the colour over time, particularly in deeper tones.

The silk blouses at Birch Citrine are all labelled as machine-washable on a cold delicate cycle, which is accurate, but Grace's personal preference is still hand-washing. The machine cycle is fine for convenience; the hand-wash is better for longevity. Both are better than dry cleaning, which uses solvents that degrade the fibre over repeated treatments.

Storage between seasons ¶

Wool and cashmere should be stored clean, folded (not hung, which distorts the shoulder), and with a cedar block or lavender sachet nearby. Moths are attracted to the lanolin in unwashed wool, so washing before storage is not optional. Linen and silk can be hung or folded; they do not attract moths.

The biggest mistake Grace sees is storing knitwear in plastic bags, which traps moisture and encourages mildew. A breathable cotton storage bag or a clean pillowcase is better.

If you are ever unsure about a specific piece, bring it in. Grace or a team member will tell you exactly what it needs.